That was one of my favorite soundbites during my clubbing era. It rolls off the tongue so smoothly, referring to overcoming fears of being exposed on the dance floor and letting loose: the recipe for having a good ol’ time. In this era of mine however, getting up is the easy part and getting down is, well…
I’m doing both you and me a disservice by what I’m about to do: convey these two stories in brief. But, as my previous blog alluded to, I am running out of time and I want to at least give you an idea of what I’ve been up to. Author’s post scribing note: This is long, but you have to read the whole thing, so take your time and break it up if you have to. Also, now have pics up, still no vids tho: http://www.flickr.com/photos/elementalbang/sets/72157626444550118/
One aspect or another of my Army years comes up in context often since I left my old life. While upon discharge, I thought I was qualified for two things: to kill people and buff tile floors, I am now reaping the benefits of other tidbits of wisdom such as, “maintain three points of contact” when climbing on military vehicles, and “just keep puttin’ one foot in front of the other” when one thought he could go no further due to exhaustion. Words that stuck with me; words that may have saved my life more than once on this trip…
Mt Cook National Park. The tallest mountain in NZ at almost 3800 meters. The kingpin of the Southern Alps with minions of changeable weather patterns, Keas that chew anything pliable, and the slow killers: glaciers. (Sorry Glacier NP. I love u but these are still REAL glaciers.) The setting: hiking vigor subdued by nothing but trail-walks since my Mt Aspiring adventure a month ago, lifted by the news that my sick cat is doing better (I skyped with Chris hoping my voice would cheer her up; funny, but she ate for the first time on her own in over a week later during that call), and eager to put in some good free-hike time, I penetrated the depths of the park.
Day 1: day hike up the Tasman Valley. I quickly went off-trail down to the lake for a closer look at the icebergs knocked loose by the ChCh earthquake. With my attention glued to the adventure of travelling over the boulder fields left by the receding Tasman Glacier, the sounds of the glacier melting, and the magnificence of it all, I hardly noticed the birth in process. Make that rebirth. See, possibly my favorite activity is free-hiking across, up, over, through, under, around, with open and inviting landscape, and here I was doing just that. No standing against the club wall in fear of exposure. My free-hike was getting up. Bonus on day one: an intimate meeting with the glacier face and some iceberg icecube pictures made famous by the expensive boat tours that I was pleased to not have to pay for now. Seek it, go for it.
Later, I drove to the campground in the next set of valleys and made an evening hike that opened the valves the rest of the way. There, I again went off trail to climb the hill I wanted to climb, not go where the trails lead me. Reward: found a sweet bivouac spot, got nice views of Mt Cook near sunset and became inspired for a day hike not to be forgotten into the Meuller Glacier Valley.
Note: This day hike is what I started writing about but am having trouble finishing right now. It’s titled “Three Points Of Contact.” Short version (even though this blog already is much longer-winded that I intended) follows.
Day 2: “At one point the thought of my mom seeing what I was doing, followed by my dad also seeing came to mind. If they had, they both would have dropped whatever they were doing and prayed intensely until the ordeal was over.” Before that point, I flirted with disaster by scaling down a loosely bound cliff/scree slope of a laterall moraine leading down to the glacial lake. Then I made my way to the glacier face, stopping to admire and explore the many blue pools filling the depressions and the streams connecting some of them. Then I got the bright idea to skirt along the glacier’s edge up and around the corner toward the source. Wrong turn: I love to climb, and it looked as if I could get a view of the source and surrounding areas if I just climbed the mountain it curved around. I proceeded carefully since many of the boulders in the field were loose and moved when I stepped on them, which made me think of 127 hours.
So, up and up I went, at times relying on the confidence gained in the techniques learned from rock climbing with Wes and Chris last summer. The problem soon became apparent that this face was in need of exfoliation and I relied heavily on my 3 points of contact skills to cling to it. Most of the time I had all four in place, trying not to put too much pressure on any one point for fear of it going, which it did, several times. My heart pounded in my chest and I had no room for error, nor room for any other thought.
This reminds me somewhat of mountain biking, and why I love it so much. Total concentration can be nourishing. When I used to ride so fast downhill, pushing the boundary of my ability, it required ALL of my concentration. Mix that with roller coaster-type thrill and the risk of consequences and you have the recipe for a spiritual experience. It’s the closest to true “meditation” (clearing the mind completely) I’ve ever experienced, and I love it so. So, back to Mr Glenn (don’t worry, he’s too focused to know we were gone) clinging for dear life, yes, I was scared for mine.
I’m not sure at what point it became evident that I was in way over my head, but it definitely dawned on me too late. I was in climb mode, and even though I knew that the section I just cleaned wouldn’t be a way down, I kept going, thinking there would be another way down. Well, at times I had to traverse left or right to find even a way up, and soon realized that NONE of the ways down looked do-able. There is a term called being rimrocked, where you cannot proceed up or down. You’re stuck, and I was afraid I was going to become so.
I definitely wasn’t thinking straight, as all of my focus was dedicated to not falling off this slope. The decayed, crumbling wall dropped rocks: each the first note in a symphony of avalanche as it garnered friends on the way down, down, down. If I slipped here, I would tumble and bounce off the rocks to certain death below; if I was lucky, I would hit my head hard enough to be knocked unconscious or die. I was truly afraid for my life at this point. Each time one of my perches broke way, I thanked God that the others held, as I’m not sure I’d stick with only two. Still, there was no way down; I had to keep going up.
Once I finally made it to where the loose rocks and scree met the even steeper yet stable cliff to the summit, I took my pack off and sat down on the relatively safe flat. The feeling of elation that normally accompanies a mountain climb, the awe at the expansive views evoking fantasy of flight, the joy in eating a snack at the top- none were anywhere near my mind; I was focused on one thing: survival. Embarassing thoughts of having to be rescued crossed my mind, or worse… body recovery. I recorded an “I’m sorry” video on my camera prior to making a move.
I weighed my options: climb to the top and skirt the ridgeline south to where I knew a trail existed, or find a way down this slope. The weather forecast called for gale-force winds and rain later that day, so I certainly didn’t want to be stuck up here waiting for rescue, nor did I want to be on the ridgetop even higher up where I wasn’t even sure if it was passible.
So, I said a prayer and my family would be happy to hear, invited Jesus to “go on a climb with me,” and traversed the line where the cliff met the start of the scree/rock slope until I found what looked to be a possible route. It looked good, but curved out of sight around a fin of rocks to who knows what- hopefully not a cliff and Mr Glenn being rimrocked. Fortunately for me, it turned out to be a decent route and may have been an easier way up as well, although I wasn’ about to test it out. The first step onto the relatively safe glacier (covered in rocks) was like taking a breath after holding it for longer than you could without someone plugging your nose and gagging you. I laughed out loud in relief and took a celebratory dip in one of the icy blue pools.
I’ll tell you what: never have I been so afraid for my life or thought seriously that I may die this day, but NEVER have I felt so alive. There were no gorillas in zoos in this valley on this day, only your little mountain goat Glenn pushing his limits and LIVING. (Don’t worry mom and dad, I’m not about to repeat this folly.) The feeling though, of living life, doing what I love… I pursued again on another adventure, this time back in Fiordland.
(Note: I finished the hike by exploring the glacier, to the other side of the lake, up the Hooker Glacier river which also flows into Lake Meuller, and sadly, eventually, back onto a trail. What a great day!)
I need to get on the road, so this one will be much shorter. Pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/elementalbang/sets/72157626314445513/
Mission: climb Mt Titiroa, 1700 meters. Stunning views of Fiordland in all directions at stake. Challenges: another energy-sapping chest cold, snow down to 800 meters, forecast of further precipitation, three day hike round trip, no trail once at the base. Day 1: catch water taxi to trailhead and hike the long way around to the hut. Cut firewood. Sleep early, rain all night.
Day 2: wake before dawn and walk to a clearing to view the sky: looks like clouds will break. Pack up daypack, leave intentions and pack at hut. Surprised by 3 hour hike to base and inability to find the “point you in the right direction” trail on my map that supposedly began up the mountain. Considered modifying plans and exploring this beautiful river valley before returning to the hut. Nah, gotta at least get above treeline. Free-climbed up and up steep, wooded, mossy slope with cliffs to ridgeline, and followed it to above treeline. From there, followed the snowy ridgeline all the way to the summit. Exhausted, cheered for the sun to beat the clouds: “C’mon, sun. If I can do it, you can do it.” Just keep putting one foot in front of the other. Views were somewhat obscured, but still revealed just how amazing this place is, and I thought how if I lived near here, I would spend an entire summer exploring this area.
Gotta get down after going up. Easier said than done. Up was easy- even if you get off track, as long as you are heading up hill, you eventually get there. But, going downhill, every direction is down and it’s surprisingly easy to get disoriented in tight forest. THREE TIMES I ended up coming to the same clearing that gave way to… the way up! I thought it impossible and had visions of the blair witch project where they walked along that river for hours and came to the same tree they had passed hours earlier. I seriously thought there was some cosmic bs in place wanting me to stay on that mountain top. No way man, it was snowing and my feet were soaking wet and I was exhausted. To top it off, the batteries in my GPS were about dead which is why I couldn’t just leave it on to track my way down. If I went down the wrong side of the ridgeline, I would be an entire valley over from where I needed to be and would have to build a shelter and fire to survive the night. I cursed myself for relying on a GPS and not also carrying a compass. A little, 20 gram, $5 compass.
No near death experiences today: I finally made it down, but I used up the hour buffer I allowed myself to make it back to the river/trail with enough daylight to get back to the hut. I always carry a headlamp, but the trail is patchy and hard to follow even in daylight without seeing the orange triangle markers that would be very difficult to spot at distance at night. Plus my knees had been acting up all day and were on fire now. Back to hut at dark. Build fire. Make soup. Sleep and dream heavily.
Day 3: Wake shortly after sunrise, make breakfast (I love how English sometimes call it brecky), clean hut, hike to port (knee hurting badly), endure sandflies while waiting for water taxi. Wash clothes and self in lake, go to library and write blog. Write that last sentence. Write about writing that sentence from two ago. Write-